Northeast Harbor

Wed Aug 30

Today my copy of the 'Field Guide to The North Atlantic' (Proctor & Lynch., Yale University Press. 2005.) surfaced from the recesses of an on board shelf. I had searched from stem to stern for it days ago, when trying to identify the diving birds off Muscongus Bay. We now are fairly certain they are Northern Gannets because of the spectacular dives and their large size. (e.g., wingspans of 72 in!). How a book could remain hidden in a 27 foot boat for 4 days remains a mystery.

We spent a comfortable night at Burnt Coat Harbor on Swan Island last night and in the morning, after the fishing fleet had departed, we stopped for fuel and water at the Lobster Co-op.

According to the cruising guide the fishermen here have a hand in the mooring rental operation. This may account for their early morning courtesy. Often in working harbors, the morning starts with a roar of 50 diesel engines an hour or so before dawn, and the rocking of my little boat all their resultant wakes. At Burnt Coat Harbor I noticed the lobster boats crept out of the harbor with all the stealth of a husband trying not to awake his sleeping and cantankerous wife. The moorings are managed by Kevin, a proprietor of the Boat House, where they also serve food. Regretfully we had already dined on hot dogs on the way in. Pete tells me the Boat House also has music and Kevin plays a guitar and sings. He also fishes.

Both us rowed around the harbor to look at the schooners more closely. The Victory Chimes, Grace Bailey, Lewis E French, and Timberwinds were all in the harbor.

Tonight finds us in Northeast Harbor in Mt Desert. We went ashore for our long desired showers only to find there was no hot water. "Boiler out."

** quick editorial note:

1.) Several people have commented they thought some recent entries here had been written by Nancy. I think this confusion comes from the fact I am now travelling with a friend also named Peter and referring to him by name has obscured my authorial presence. To the best of my knowledge I have written all these entries and they are a reasonable, but imperfect, record of recent events.
2) Years ago I had another friend also named Peter, whose companion was also named Nancy. For some months I looked forward to going with them to some social event where I planned they would introduce themselves as Peter and Nancy. Then I would add, "And so are we."